Oval, Pear, Cushion: Which Non-Round Shape Is Right for You?

When it comes to engagement rings, choosing a round brilliant is the ultimate can’t-go-wrong classic. With unmatched sparkle and symmetry, it’s easy to see why it’s the most popular diamond cut in the world. But what if you’re ready to look a little outside the jewellery box? For those drawn to something distinctive, ‘fancy shapes’ offer an mesmerising alternative. At 77, we’re peering through our loupe to explore three iconic shapes: the oval, pear and cushion. 

First things first: What is a Fancy Diamond Shape?

Simply put: a fancy shape is any diamond cut that isn’t round. But there’s more to it than that.

The term ‘fancy’ refers back to when diamond merchants decided to rebrand and promote lesser-known diamond shapes throughout the 20th century. Many diamond cutters began experimenting beyond the traditional round brilliant, shaping stones into stylised silhouettes that could enhance a diamond’s fire or complement different finger types (the Princess cut for example, only appeared in the 1970s!). These innovative cuts offered new ways to play with proportion and light.

While the round brilliant remains the benchmark for symmetry and sparkle, fancy shapes have carved out their own place in history, loved for their individuality and unique aesthetics.

Introducing the Oval: The Elegant Choice

Refined and graceful, the oval diamond adds a softer contour while still retaining the sparkle of a round cut. The modern version of this diamond was developed in the late 1950s by renowned cutter Lazare Kaplan, and combines the scintillation of a round diamond with an elongated silhouette that flatters the hand.

The oval’s brilliance makes it one of the most versatile of all fancy shapes, offering sparkle from every angle. One attribute specific to this shape is known as the ‘bow-tie effect’, a shadow sometimes seen across the centre when light doesn’t reflect back, resembling a bow tie. A well-cut oval, with a good length to width ratio, minimises this beautifully. 

This custom design from 77 Diamonds shows a centre oval diamond set in 18K yellow gold with a selection of accent diamonds on either side

Facets: Typically 58, mirroring the round brilliant.

Ideal length-to-width ratio: Between 1.35 and 1.50, depending on preference, longer will maximise perceived size, while shorter will ensure a better light return for sparkle. 

Famous wearers: Blake Lively’s 12-carat light pink oval diamond, set in rose gold, remains one of the most admired celebrity engagement rings of all time.

Best ring to pair it with: Try pairing an oval diamond with our Delicacy Vintage Engagement Ring: a sleek, slender band that leads the eye to your diamond’s soft contour. 

Introducing the Pear: Delicacy with a Twist

Elegant yet full of character, the pear diamond (also called the teardrop) is a fusion of two beloved shapes, round and marquise, joined to form a graceful tapering point.

The Pear cut dates back to the 1400s, when Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Bercken revolutionised diamond cutting by inventing the polishing wheel, allowing for complex shapes and symmetrical brilliance. Centuries later, the pear remains an all-time favourite, drawing our eyes to its deliberate asymmetry.

Showing a tiara-like shape, this custom-made ring from 77 features sparkling accent diamonds and a centre pear diamond adorning the peak

Facets: Usually 56 to 58.

Ideal length-to-width ratio: Between 1.45 and 1.75, depending on whether you prefer a softer or more elongated silhouette.

Famous wearers: Victoria Beckham and Sophie Turner are well-known to have embraced the pear diamond’s allure, with each celebrity interpreting the shape in a own modern way. And let’s not forget Elizabeth Taylor’s incredible 69ct. pear diamond ring that she later wore as a necklace. 

Best ring to pair it with: The Paloma Engagement Ring complements the teardrop’s natural grace, while a delicate hidden halo adds subtle shimmer. For maximum brilliance, position the point facing outward to elongate the finger.

Introducing the Cushion: The Real Sparkler

Soft, romantic, and oh-so radiant: there's a reason everyone loves the pillowy contour of the cushion diamond. Named for its soft outline, this cut has been adored since the 18th century, when it was cut in the old style known today as the ‘old-mine cut’. Over time, advancements in faceting have transformed it into the sparkling diamond we all love. 

The cushion’s distinctive appeal lies in its variety. Elongated cushions offer a sleek and contemporary look, ideal for wearing in east-west settings, while square cushions offer more geometry with a softer contour than, for example, the princess-cut. A variety of the cut, known as ‘crushed ice cushions’, deliver a dazzling and almost liquid-like brilliance.

This imposing ring shows just how creative you can be with with fancy diamond shapes. Here, a centre cushion diamond is flanked by two green tsavorite stones, all artfully contrasted in an 18K yellow gold setting. 

Facets: Typically 58, though modern variations can have up to 64.

Ideal length-to-width ratio: 1.00 for a square look, or up to 1.20 for an elongated style.

Famous wearers: Kim Kardashian’s and Meghan Markle’s cushion-cut engagement rings have cemented this shape’s reputation for glamour and enduring appeal.

Best ring to pair it with: Our Asteria Engagement Ring, designed to highlight the diamond’s rounded corners and deep fire. Its refined four-claw compass setting allows light to pass freely, maximising brilliance from every angle.