Ah, the ever-elusive Asscher diamond. Probably a diamond cut you’ve never even heard of, or if you have, it was only after scrolling through a list of stone shapes and arriving at the very end. Deep down, you’re already intrigued: you’ve got a flair for the uncommon, and a unique love story knows a unique diamond. If there’s an engagement ring that screams ‘out-of-the-box’, then it’s surely set with an Asscher.
For those who love bold style, this diamond shape is just the ticket. But there is more to the Asscher cut than meets the eye. Before settling on a favourite stone for your engagement ring, learn a bit more about why the Asscher may (or may not be!) the perfect diamond for you.
Back To Brilliance: The Roaring 20s
The Asscher cut was actually introduced in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, as the Art Deco movement was in full swing. Reflecting the era, this diamond was cut and faceted to reveal a crisp geometry: clipped corners and wonderfully symmetrical design of flat, step-like facets that bounce light back and forth.
Above: Elizabeth Taylor wearing the 33.19-carat Krupp Diamond, an Asscher cut that was later renamed the Elizabeth Taylor Diamond.
The Asscher has deeply cropped corners, giving the stone an almost octagonal appearance, while its broad facets create a mesmerising effect, known as “hall of mirrors”. I mean, just look at this beauty.
And that’s exactly where the Asscher’s charm lies. It doesn’t sparkle in quite the same way as a round brilliant. Instead, the light moves in dramatic flashes across the stone, giving it an almost hypnotic quality.
Why You Should Choose The Asscher Diamond
Ultra-Unique Look
While rounds, ovals and cushions tend to dominate the engagement ring world, the Asscher is still something of a dark horse. Its square silhouette and clipped corners instantly give a ring a more antique, old-money feel, without being so unusual that it loses its timelessness.
Hall of Mirrors Effect
Those wide, step-cut facets create layers of light and dark that seem to travel deep into the stone’s centre. Viewed from above, you’ll often see a mesmerising geometric pattern, almost like looking into a never-ending room lined with mirrors.
Rather than the glittery, scattered brilliance of a round brilliant, an Asscher gives you flashes of light that come alive under very particular, low-light conditions.
77 Diamonds Art Deco engagement ring with a champagne-coloured Asscher diamond, surrounded by a halo of baguette diamonds.Structure & Style
With its square shape, cropped corners and concentric facets, this cut comes together in a way that feels incredibly polished. And because the shape has such strong architectural lines, it works beautifully with rings that lean into a more vintage, Art Deco aesthetic.
But don’t assume vintage is your only option. Put an Asscher in a simple solitaire setting and suddenly it feels wonderfully modern. It’s one of those rare cuts that can effortlessly swing between old-world glamour and minimalist cool.
77 Diamonds Bespoke engagement ring in 18K yellow goldAnd The Little Extra? Look Great In Candlelight.
There’s something about an Asscher under low, warm lighting that just works. The Asscher’s broad facets catch individual flashes of light rather than throwing sparkle in every direction, giving the stone a deeper, moodier kind of brilliance.
Imagine it across a candlelit dinner table. Need we say more?
Best Engagement Ring Styles For Asscher Diamonds
Starlight Solitaire
Why we love it: with a classic finish that leads the eye to your centre stone, the Starlight Solitaire holds a secret, a hidden star-set diamond nestled under the centrepiece. This symbolism coupled with this solitaire’s clean finish really highlights this special diamond cut.
Alexandria Trilogy
Why we love it: calling back to 1920s fashion, this ring with two tapered baguette diamonds will lead the eye towards your Asscher diamond, highlighting it in a delicious display of light. The definition of a match made in heaven.
Asteria Compass
Why we love it: if you’re looking for your Asscher diamond to have a slightly more modern flair, this compass-set ring might be just the ticket. It serves to highlight the Asscher in a different way, while still emphasising its beauty.
The Perfect Cut For a Bespoke Ring
77 Diamonds Bespoke Toi et Moi ring in 18K White GoldFinally, Asschers make for the ideal candidate for a fully customised bespoke ring: its unique character opens so many possibilities when it comes down to ring style, side diamonds and even adding a touch of colour with precious gemstones.
Before You Buy: Things To Remember About The Asscher
| Pros | Cons |
| Distinctive and uncommon shape | Can appear smaller face-up than other diamond shapes |
| Gorgeous Art Deco character | Inclusions can be easier to spot |
| Mesmerising 'hall of mirrors' effect | Less traditionally 'sparkly' than brilliant-cut diamonds |
| Strong symmetry and architectural style | Colour can be more noticeable |
| Works beautifully with both vintage and modern settings | Cut quality and symmetry are particularly important and you may need to prioritise clarity over carat size |
With Every Sparkle Comes Great Responsibility
Because those large, open step facets allow you to see deep into the stone, there’s less to hide behind: inclusions can be easier to spot and colour or carat size might also be affected.
When shopping for an Asscher, clarity therefore deserves a little extra attention. You don’t necessarily need to go straight to the highest grade, but you do want a stone that looks clean to the naked eye.
The same goes for colour. Step cuts can reveal body colour more readily than brilliant cuts, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself paying a little more attention to the stone’s colour grade, too.
Finally, as Asschers a cut very deep, your perceived diamond size might be smaller in comparison to a classic round brilliant diamond with the same price. That’s because carat measures a diamond’s weight, not its actual size. With any deep cut diamond, there might be a lot of ‘hidden’ weight on the lower half of the stone. Increase the carat weight and you increase the price, so if you want your Asscher to look big, be ready to pay a little more than a classic round or oval.
With an Asscher, quality over carat size is the name of the game.
So, Should You Actually Buy an Asscher Diamond?
If you want an engagement ring that everyone else has, probably not. But if you want something that feels timeless, glamorous and just a little bit unexpected: the Asscher might be the option for you.
To be clear, this isn’t for someone who wants maximum size and sparkle at every possible angle but something with a little more depth and clarity: a stone that really draws you in. It’s also worth noting that this diamond has genuine history: first embraced by the Art Deco movement, it still looks remarkably current more than a century later; the Asscher has already proved it knows how to survive a trend cycle.
So… Is the Asscher back? Perhaps it never really left.
