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Diamond shape
Seventy Seven Diamonds offers one of the widest ranges of diamond shapes available in the market, from the classic round shape (also referred to as brilliant cut) to the more eccentric and loved heart shape. Every diamond has it’s own story, and it can be told through various shapes and sizes. The diamond cutter's art is to carve these crystals into gems of stunning and whimsical beauty. The cutter's skill is of great importance to allow a raw diamond to fully bloom into it’s greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most brilliance. At this point it should be noted that the shape of a diamond can also be referred to as its “cut”, like a round or princess cut. However, this should not be confused with the more commonly used term of diamond cut, which described how well the diamond has been polished from the raw material (see section on diamond cut).
Round Brilliant Diamonds
The classic image of a diamond. The modern brilliant cut came into existence roughly 60 years ago and it is quite simply the best cut for diamonds and the most popular. This shape accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. Round diamonds were and are not always cut as Brilliants. A brilliant cut needs to include 58-facets; divided among its crown (top), girdle (middle top) and pavilion (base). The result of which, if well cut, is a firing gem that shines with brilliance.
At Seventy Seven Diamonds, all our round diamonds are brilliant cuts and we have strict parameters that help us classify the quality of the cut ranging between Premium to Fair. Look for our Premium cuts to unearth the finest of Brilliant round gems.
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Princess Cut Diamond
Square shaped with a seldom rectangular version, the princess cut is a relatively new cut blessed with numerous sparkling facets. It often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings or earrings. This design is very well suited for long fingers and is often accompanied by triangular stones at its sides.
In order to maximize a princess cut’s brilliance, it is not uncommon to find depth percentages of 70% to 78% (see section on cut). The ideal princess cut diamond should be perfectly square with a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05; whereas a more rectangular Princesses will have a length-to-width ratio greater than 1.10.
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Emerald Cut Diamond
The Emerald cut is an ideal design for fancy coloured diamonds. It’s shape is rectangular with cut corners and includes broad and flat planes that resemble stair steps when viewed from above. The crystal clear view which this shape has to offer may allow for inclusions and colour to be more pronounced.
Hence, it is advised to select a stone of superior quality to fully profit from the smoothness of the Emerald cut. The classic emerald-cut shape will have a length-to-width ratio between 1.30 and 1.40.
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Oval Diamonds
Longer than the round, this perfectly symmetrical shape will give the illusion of a larger diamond, as the shapes has a larger surface area than a round diamond with similar weight.
The traditional oval shape should have a length-to-width ratio between 1.33 and 1.66.
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Marquise Diamonds
Inspired by the striking smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and custom made by the “Roi Soleil”, France's Louis XIV; the marquise cut is an elongated shape with pointed ends that was designed to match the Marquise’s eye catching smile. This shape is embedded with enough power to stand on its own and shine as a solitaire.
The ideal marquise-cut diamonds should have length-to-width ratios between 1.75 and 2.25.
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Pear Shaped Diamonds
The pear shape is a brilliant cut, which means it has exactly 58 facets. This shape is reputed to be the crystallisation of a pure and perfect drop of water and is also referred to as a tear drop. The pear shape will often find its way on pendants or earrings.
The traditional pear-shaped diamond should have a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 and 1.75.
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Heart Shaped Diamonds
The ultimate symbol of love and romance. The heart shape is especially rare and sought after as a fancy pink diamond. The quality of this shape will depend to a great extent on the skill of the cutter. Furthermore, few diamonds are cut as hearts due to the complexity of the design, therefore heart shapes are currently undervalued from a rarity perspective.
The traditional heart-shaped diamond should have a length-to-width ratio between .90 and 1.10.
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Asscher Cut Diamond
This design is almost a square version of the Emerald cut. The Asscher cut includes a pavilion with rectangular facets in the same style as the emerald-cut.
At Seventy Seven Diamonds, we would advise VS2 and up although certain SI1s may present slightly better than others. As for the colour grade, whilst the price of a J-colour non-round diamond is considerably lower than higher colours, a slight tint of yellow may then be visible in its corners. Look for the square shaped Asscher cuts, which have a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05.
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Radiant Diamonds
This versatile design combines the brilliance of the round, the grace of the Emerald cut, and the panache of the Princess. The Radiant cut can either be square or rectangular and includes 70 facets maximizing the effect of its color refraction. As for Princess cuts, depth percentages of 70% to 78% are a good standard for Radiants (see section on cut).
Square shaped Radiants, should have a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. As for a more rectangular shape, the length-to-width ratio should be greater than 1.10.
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Cushion Diamonds
The last century’s oldest design (also known as "pillow-cut" diamonds) is available either in a square or rectangular shape, and includes rounded corners and larger facets to increase its brilliance.
For a square shaped cushion-cut diamond, the length-to-width ratio should be between 1 and 1.05. Alternatively, if you prefer a more rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.15.
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Unusual Diamond Shapes
Over the past centuries, diamond cutters have come up with some very fanciful designs such as the flower, the cloverleaf or even the kite cut to name a few. Not only is the industry able to offer different shapes but it often seeks to maximise a diamond’s weight through cut variations on standard shapes, which is a practice mainly used on extraordinary diamonds and it sometimes leads to the invention of a new shape all together. Many new shapes never thought of before are still to see the light of day and at Seventy Seven Diamonds, we have the ability to either help you find one of the existing special shapes or to assist you in creating one.
Seventy Seven Diamonds - 6th Floor, 23/25 Eastcastle Street, London W1W 8DF - United Kingdom.
Registered in England and Wales No 5142579, 77Diamonds Ltd at 59 Lafone Street London SE1 2LX. VAT No.: GB 835 4612 28 T +44 (0) 207 631 5304 - Resources