Everything you need to know about the ring: Settings

The ring; a symbol of eternity, love and commitment.  But there are so many different types of settings, metals, and decoration techniques to consider before buying the special gift – whether it be an engagement, eternity or wedding ring.  In this two part series we will give you an overview of the choices you face and tips to help you make the right one. This article will give you a rundown of the different aspects of ring settings. Make sure to check back next week when we explain the different metals used for rings!

Solitaire Engagement Ring

Diamond solitaire engagement rings are single, elegant diamonds that may come in a variety of shapes (heart, marquise, round, pear, oval, emerald, etc.), settings (channel, bezel, flush, prong, tiffany, etc.), and sizes.

Engagement Ring with Accent Stones

Accent stone or side stone settings include both a larger center stone as well as multiple small stones that embellish the engagement ring band. Many accent stones are set in channels to protect them from damage. Some people prefer a combination of round stones and baguettes, round stones only, or trilliums (triangles).

Three-Stone Setting

Three-Stone Settings are seen to be nostalgic, with each of the diamonds representing the past, present, and future. The stones are set in a straight line without additional accent stones. Many people prefer to build their own engagement ring by choosing each of the three diamonds.

Bridal Set

Bridal Sets are available where you can purchase engagement rings with matching wedding bands. The bands can be solid gold with a matching solitaire engagement ring, or they might have side stone settings in both the wedding band and the engagement ring, with the engagement ring also featuring a prominent solitaire. For many of these bridal set rings, the wedding band cannot be worn without the engagement ring and the two are frequently soldered together prior to the wedding.

Prong Setting

Designed in 1886, the classic prong setting is the most popular option, especially for solitaires. The diamond is set in a metal basket and secured with three or more prongs or claws, making it appear to hang. Prong settings allow for the most light to enter the diamond and be refracted, increasing the diamond's sparkle.  They are also easy to clean.

Prong settings are very secure for larger diamonds, but may not be the best choice for smaller diamonds because the stone may appear lost or overshadowed. 6 prongs is the most desirable number for symmetry and security.  The disadvantages of prongs are the tendency to get caught on hair or clothing, and  thin prongs may be easily bent or twisted.

Bar Setting

The bar setting is a variation on the prong setting. Rather than individual claws, prongs on each side of the setting are fused into elongated bars to hold the gem in place. This is a great option that highlights more metal but does not obscure the stone as much as bezel settings might.

Bezel Setting

A bezel is a metal band that wraps around a circular diamond to hold it in place. You may also see partial bezels which only surround the sides of the stone. Bezel settings provide good protection and are known for their durability. The metal can also accentuate a diamond, making it look larger than it would in a prong engagement ring setting, or covering minor flaws. Bezels also provide a very smooth surface unlikely to snag on hair or clothing. Their only disadvantage is they are usually more expensive than prong settings

A rubover is made by creating a tapered hole in which the diamond sits with the surrounding metal pressed around its rim, though unlike bezels, the metal does not fold over the top of the stone. This offers good protection for diamonds and a smooth, sleek surface. Flush settings provide a very tailored, contemporary appearance. If made improperly, they can easily loosen and the stones may be lost.

Tension settings are created with ultra-strong metal, using the band of the ring itself as the only method of holding the stone in place. Small grooves are carved into the edge of the band where it intersects the stone for added security, but the end result is the startling appearance of the diamond being held in midair. Tension engagement ring settings are quite expensive because they must be individually sized; the ring cannot be resized without losing the necessary strength to protect the stone.

Channel Setting

Channel settings are very popular for accent stones or simple rings such as eternity rings that lack an overall center stone or single focal point. Diamonds of similar size and shape – frequently round or princess cuts – are lined in a channel inset into the ring’s band, with a narrow strip of metal along the sides to hold them in place without prongs or bars between them. Because the stones are inset, this is a very secure setting option, though it does not highlight the gems as elevated settings do.

An invisible setting is a very modern option where the stone is bound to the ring without immediately visible means. Typically, the setting involves a stable cup the stone can rest in and that cup is then attached to the band in a bypass or split design. The effect is similar to a tension setting but the ring can still be resized without difficulty.

Pave/ Micro Pave Setting

Because of their exquisite elegance and beauty, pave setting engagement rings are becoming increasingly popular. This design literally coats the entire surface of the ring with gems, each set into either a minute depression or secured with thin, unobtrusive prongs. Similiarly, the term micro pave refers to any very closely set tiny gemstones. Micro refers to the small sizes of the gems.

Cluster Setting with close up of Milgrain

Milgrain diamond wedding bands are elegant in style and chic in fashion. Milgrain is a design engraved into the edge of the metal of the ring that resembles a string of tiny beads. This beautiful raised beaded edge design is defined by an engraver's tool and offers a beautiful antique-type appearance.

A cluster setting is designed to present multiple stones – often semi-precious gems rather than diamonds – in a figural design such as a flower or butterfly. Another cluster option is to use many small stones to create the illusion of a larger gem without the expense of a single stone of higher carat weight.

Varied Settings

Some engagement rings offer two or more settings on a single ring, usually with the centre stone highlighted above smaller accent stones.

In addition to choosing which ring metal and setting best compliments the bride-to-be, it is crucial to choose a quality setting that will not be easily damaged or require repairs. Most settings are made of platinum because it is stronger than gold, and its white hue will not tint stones or decrease their color value. When examining a setting, test each stone to be sure it is secure and that there are no unsightly or uneven gaps. Stones should sit level in the ring, and the contact points of the setting should be symmetrical.

A bulky setting may overpower a slender hand, whereas a delicate setting may be too fine for a thick finger. Diamond shapes and sizes also affect the setting: a small stone will disappear in a thick, elaborate setting, whereas a larger stone may look bizarre in a tiny setting.

So that’s everything you need to know about setting.  Find the perfect diamond to accompany it at 77Diamonds.