Antique and Vintage Jewellery Designs

What is the difference between antique and vintage?

The term ‘vintage’ is used to describe styles that existed from the 1920’s to the 1980’s. Vintage jewellery can either be a reproduction of an original item or designed in the style of something that existed or it can be the actual genuine item. Vintage style jewellery is more ornamental and makes use of smaller decorative diamonds.

The term ‘antique’ is usually applied to jewellery that was made before 1920. Antique jewellery styles are named after the time period in which they were first created. Many antique styles continue to influence jewellery design today and are even reproduced at the request of discerning jewellery buyers. Antique style engagement rings were both elegant and delicate, made with great care and attention to detail.

Vintage and Antique Styles

Art Deco (1920’s and 1930’s)

The art deco era began with a rejection of Victorian values and was a time of creativity and invention. It is known as one of the most creative periods of jewellery design. The art deco style was influenced by African, Egyptian, and Japanese themes. This is why its style can be identified through its symmetry and geometric patterns. Features such as clear cuts, sharp lines, bright colours, and bold shapes were popular at this time.

During the art deco era, the Cubist movement influenced the demand for fashionable new cuts of diamond. This is time in history where we see the baguette, emerald, trilliant, pear and marquise cuts developed.

Edwardian (1901-1910)

The Edwardian epoque is identified with the prosperous reign of King Edward VII. Jewellery manufacture and design was popular during this period as the use of platinum allowed for stones to be held in thinner, more delicate mounts. This meant that jewellery often had rich and extravagant designs, decorated with many diamonds.

Edwardian designs were influenced by Ancient Greek, Classical Roman, French Baroque and Rococo, Napoleonic and Second Empire styles. Rings were massive and domed, decorated with ornate settings and gems. Platinum allowed for the use filigree work. Popular diamond shapes were marquise, baguette, kite, triangle and briolette.

Victorian (1837-1901)

Queen Victoria’s reign is known as the Victorian period. Jewellery design from this time was romantic and sentimental, inspired by Victoria’s love for her husband and children. Victorians had a passion for opals, but later moved on to diamonds, which became affordable after the discovery of large deposits in South Africa.

The Victorian style was influenced by treasures discovered in Egypt, Greece and Asia, as well as designs from ancient Rome, medieval Europe and 18th century France. A good example of Victorian reproduction jewellery is the engagement ring of Queen Victoria, a gold snake coiling about itself, which is an ancient Roman symbol of eternal love.

Estate

The term Estate jewellery describes the different eras of jewellery design: Georgian jewellery (1714-1837), Early Victorian romantic jewellery (1837-1850), Mid-Victorian grand jewellery (1860-1880), Late Victorian aesthetic jewellery (1885-1900), Arts and crafts jewellery (1894-1923), Art Nouveau jewellery (1895-1915), Edwardian jewellery (1901-1910), Art Deco jewellery (1920-1935) and Retro jewellery (1940s).